My visit to the Himalayas to review Spa treatments and to research plants,
exotic flowers and sacred cedar forests – a breathtaking experience!

In June, I went to the Himalayan Mountains, India, and stayed at the stunning Wildfower Hall Hotel, an Oberoi spa resort, near Shimla. Voted for 2 years in a row, as the best Hotel Spa in India, it is a place that I had always wanted to visit.

I had visited Delhi for over a month in the early 70s and was left with great memories and colourful impressions. In the 80s, I was invited to Bangalore for a conference on healing where the Dalai Lama was the main speaker. During this trip I began research on my second book, 'The Encyclopaedia of Plant and Essential Oils' (published in the early 90s), and took the opportunity to travel to Mysore to visit the sandalwood plantations. Thus my knowledge of India was already established and I was full of anticipation.

Delhi was our first stop before going into the Himalays, and it was so good to be back and see how much it had changed. Considered to be an unrivalled centre of culture where the Mohammedan rulers of the past had left their imprint on the monuments, Delhi leaves you with an impression of Imperial grandeur in its fortresses, mausoleums, wells and many numerous artistic creations. Imperialistic art and the heritage of the British Empire are still very much alive in the atmosphere of the city. I get the same pleasure in Delhi as I do in Rome when looking at all the great palaces and monuments. They possess artistic value in spite of their architectural differences and are a glimpse into the spirit of the last Empire. The ruins and litter of all ages astound the visitors passing through, and depict a time that both lingers on and is slowly disappearing.

The city is going through an incredible Renaissance, a force of living and being is felt the moment you arrive. The air is as hot as a brick oven and so vibrant that it quickly sucks your energy, leaving you exhausted. There are hundreds and hundreds of cars, rickshaws, lorries, carts, bicycles on the roads and cows stroll leisurely on the pavements looking for food and refreshment. The environment appears totally improbable to a Westerner and leaves you quite perplexed, but I love the commotion and life of Delhi.

One fundamental teaching in Indian philosophy is to doubt everything –nothing is what it seems. I remembered that saying in Delhi. Cox and Kings travel group assigned us an old driver to take us from the airport to the luxury hotel and on the way he explained why there was so much activity on the roads. With a toothless grin on his kind face he told us that the Commonwealth games were to blame for all the bustle. Bridges, viaducts, new roads and monuments were hastily being erected by hundreds of workers, who frequently had to carry heavy loads of bricks and wood across the roads. He told us, with a sigh, that the city would be ready for the games in a year’s time. On the way to the hotel, we passed crumbling towers, old mosques, tombs, embassies, gardens and parks large and small, including Nehru’s park, which I had visited years before. Then, out of nowhere, appeared the magnificent Oberoi Hotel, set on a golf course and away from the buzzing of the city.

The first Spa treatment
After checking in, my husband and I were given a tour and told that my therapist would be ready for me in half an hour. We were taken to a lovely garden and there I was able to relax before my massage – a wonderful way to recuperate after the long journey from London and so welcomed before the next part of the trip.

The Oberoi is renowned for its spa and treatments and my jetlag massage was no exception. The treatment room was very quiet except for some gentle background music. There was a French door leading onto a little garden filled with colourful flowers. Everything in that room was so well placed to give the utmost feeling of serenity. My therapist was an expert with impeccable manners. She first placed my feet in a large bowl of hot water containing scented oils, squeezing the pressure points and cleaning each one. It felt wonderful! Before the body massage she placed a bowl of herbs and scented flowers under the massage table (something I also did with my clients) and told me to inhale the invigorating fumes. The aroma of cajuput and pine helped my breathing and was very much appreciated after 12 hours on the plane. My body was first stretched to loosen the muscle tension and then the therapist applied a deep touch to the pressure points. This quickly put me to sleep and when I awoke after an hour and half, I felt refreshed and well.

The Oberoi spa is a great experience and they say in the brochure ‘a journey of transformation’. Their holistic treatments are based on Aromatherapy and Ayurveda – both great for helping the body to recuperate after a long flight. As aromatherapy is my subject, I wondered what the massage would be like but in the end, everything was to perfection.

After the massage, I was taken to a comfortable chair near the garden and was told to relax and take it easy for half an hour. Scented herbal tea was prepared for me and I was at total peace. The whole experience was wonderful and I appreciated the period of relaxation after the massage as it enables your senses to awaken. After a light dinner, I returned to the room and slept well, waking up full of energy and ready to attack the long day ahead. I wasn’t even that apprehensive about getting back to the airport!

Our destination was Wildflower Hall, Oberoi resort. It is near Shimla in the Himalayas but it would be a good 10 hours before we got there. The airport was full of people; all in colourful robes and what was remarkable was that only people with tickets were allowed inside. Vigilant checks were carried out before anyone was allowed to enter and as a result, the airport was freer. The flight was full of happy, talkative families, large gatherings of old and young all looking forward to a holiday and getting away from the 40°C heat of Delhi. The short journey was pleasant as we flew over the north of India but it was rather cloudy and we couldn’t make out the landscape below. The captain announced turbulence and bad weather but in the end we arrived safely.

Unfortunately there was a tornado and storm in sight and after retrieving our luggage at the small airport, we stepped right into a sandstorm! We couldn’t see any further than a couple of feet in front of us and this made it impossible to find our driver. We couldn’t distinguish one person from another, shadows of ghost-like people were running for shelter and we were soon covered with white dust – of course we were wearing dark clothes! The dust penetrated our clothes and hair and covered our faces so we ended up looking like statues. Then, out of the cloud, a man appeared asking if we were travelling to Shimla. With relief, and covering our faces, we followed him to the car and waited for the storm to subside. He was from Cox and Kings Travel Group and explained to us that these weather conditions were normal for the season before the Monsoon, a month away.

It would take over six hours of driving to reach our destination and we would climb to an altitude of over 8250ft (2600m). The small town of Chharabra, 15kms from

Shimla, could only be reached via tiny roads and we could only travel at 20mph! The journey was really interesting though, and we passed through many colourful villages before seeing the magnificent Himalayan Mountains in the distance. The road was so narrow, and the amount of traffic so incredible – we passed cars and lorries that were beautifully decorated, carts of all sorts, bicycles, motorbikes, people walking by the side of the road. Cows that seemed not at all worried about the traffic – we also had the added danger of trying not to kill them! The drive was a real life experience as my senses and nerves were on alert every second of the way.

After a short stop and a drink of the excellent local cider, we reached Wildflower Hall with great expectations. For two years in a row, the hotel has won an award for the best spa resort in India. Suddenly there it was, surrounded with evergreen flowers and breathtaking with natural beauty. Set within acres of cedar and pine trees and bearing testimony to its rich colonial heritage, Wildflower Hall was built at the time of the Raj, on the spot of Lord Kitchener’s old lodge.

I had always dreamed of seeing the Himalayas and finally my dream had come true. They are nothing at all like the Pyrenees, the Alps or the Dolomites – mountains that I had visited year after year as a child. They are more grandiose and magnificent, in fact the mountains are so incredible, that when we arrived I burst into tears of emotion – tears of joy I told myself!

Once in the hotel we were welcomed by David Mathews, General Manager, who was only too happy to give us a tour and show us around the facilities. Everyone greeted us with a bow and a nod, and every time we passed we were shown respect. At first this made me feel embarrassed and I returned the polite prayer!

Our bedroom was on the 5th floor and had a spectacular view of snow-capped mountains and glorious valleys that stretched for miles and miles in different colours of green. The room was so special it was more like a retreat and had knotted rugs and rich soft furnishings – all the little details had been taken care of.

We got to know David, the general manager, and soon called him by his first name. He told us about the history of the place and the activities that were available during our stay. I was full of anticipation about the numerous choices we had to make, but in the end we choose river rafting and trekking. The hotel also had horse riding, mountain biking and shopping excursions in Shimla. And if we wanted, we could take leisurely walks in the fragrant cedar forest or picnic with a gourmet hamper; there were so many things available to make our stay special.

We were then taken on a tour of the Great Lodge. At least 200 metres from the main building and set in the cedarwood forest, the lodge has spectacular views of the Himalayas. We were told that during the time of Lord Kitchener it was used as a hunting lodge – snow leopards, pheasants, partridges and bears were all targets. I was glad that that time was over, and now the lodge worked alongside nature. It was a place to recuperate and relax the senses, with yoga classes and many treatments on offer. The outdoor terrace was used for yoga and I would join the group every morning as the sun rose. (The teacher, Dinesh, keeps in touch with me to this day, emailing me new programs to follow – complete with pictures!) A magnificent, heated indoor swimming pool, also with a wonderful view, was the icing on the cake.

Nature and plants: What I most enjoyed about the hotel was that there were so many things to do; there were so many different activities and treatments available that every day could be spent doing something new. One day we went with a guide to find wildflowers – so beautiful and abundant during the summer. Unfortunately, the world still suffers from a lack of awareness regarding ecological conservation – everyone needs to know the code of conduct so a guide is essential. Our first guide, Dheeraj, was great and very respectful of the environment. He told us not to pick up any flowers or seeds, anything that would disrupt nature’s way. I was happy to respect the forest so we were careful at every step. View video >>

The walk was full of surprises and unforgettable memories. On entering the forest we saw a few colourful butterflies. As we got deeper into the trees, the butterflies grew in numbers and many landed on my jacket. Soon the top half was covered and I felt like they were catching a free ride! It was extraordinary. Dheeraj had a lot of knowledge about all the different species of wildflowers and pointed out many rare ones – some exclusive to that area. When you first see one it’s so exciting, almost like discovering wild strawberries! As I had collected them in the past, I was very curious and asked many questions. (In addition to our guide, we were also given a booklet on wildflowers, written by Manoj Biswas, an ecologist and botanist.

I discovered Indian Lily of the valley, which loves the shade of the forest. It’s a very delicate white flower, quite similar in fragrance to its European cousin but slightly more robust in appearance. Its leaves are grass-like and greenish blue in colour, and it originates in Korea and Japan. It has medicinal properties and its roots are sometimes used in Europe as a substitute for ginseng. I was shown a wild Delphinium, a beautiful blue flower. The word comes from the Greek delphin, or dolphin, as the shape of the unopened flower buds bear a similarity to the head of a dolphin. The flowers can grow up to altitudes of 2700 metres and are also found in Kashmir and Nepal. From June-August, many varieties of delphinium grow at Wildflower Hall so we were in luck. In India, it is known as Nirbishi, meaning ‘without poison’ and it has many bactericide properties. As a result, delphiniums are used in medicines that cure animal wounds and kill ticks and lice. I felt so protected along the walk surrounded with all these cures!

Wildflower Hall is also blessed with Dog Violet, they are everywhere – a little timid flower that peeps through the undergrowth. It has a sweet smell and is a great favourite with honeybees. It’s one of my favourite flowers for medicinal properties and can be made into a good homeopathic remedy to cure skin, eye and ear problems. Dog violet is also used in the Ayurvedic and Unani systems of medicine and used in a cough mixture called Binapsha.

On our walk we encountered many butterfly bushes and as their name suggests, they are a favourite with the many species of butterfly indigenous to the area. We saw tortoiseshells, painted ladies and red admirals, and all were attracted to the fragrant flowers. One of these bushes, Budleja, was brought to Britain in the 18th century by the botanical author Rev. Adam Buddle. In summer, it can be found all over the British Isles and often seeds itself in cracks on walls – I remember it growing from the wall of my little cottage in Surrey.

Wild iris, Columbine, Knotweed and more can be found growing at heights of between 2000-4500m. Our guide suggested we take notes during the walk to record all the plants we found. I vowed to bring my sketchbook and watercolours with me next time, as it would be wonderful to illustrate my notes with paintings of the flowers. I felt it would be a very therapeutic thing to do and so rewarding. Discovering all these flowers, combined with the magnificent view, made the day a wonderful experience.

On another day we went river rafting. We travelled for 60kms to an altitude of 3000m. It was a very bumpy ride in the Range Rover as the road was very rocky. The landscape was beautiful and we were treated to some breathtaking views along the way. Every minute we would see something different. We passed groups of wild monkeys collecting nuts from the road, mothers carrying babies on their backs or clasping them to their chests, babies holding their mother’s tails – it was a while before they let the car pass!

We soon arrived at the river and were told that the rapids only appeared a month before the monsoon. They are a product of the melting snow travelling down from the mountains, later, during the monsoon, the river would lose the rapids and gain a strong current. At this point I was holding my breath and wondering if I could go through with it. I had been river rafting before, on New Zealand’s South Island, but there, the boat had had a motor in it – now I had to paddle in a canoe! We met our instructor, a lovely man with a smiling face. He was very welcoming and gave us our instructions. I was a little scared but listened attentively. We would travel for 3 hours, 30kms down the river, resting for lunch halfway on the riverbank. I was wearing a tee shirt and shorts and was given a life jacket, helmet and special shoes to wear. In the end, I decided to go for it and bravely sat upfront on the left-hand side, facing the river.

My goodness it went so fast! A great explosion and spray of water against the rocks. I got absolutely soaking wet and wondered if I would ever be able to dry off. I did my best and even started to enjoy myself as I listened to the instructor telling us what to do and when to take action. Originally from Nepal, he had lots of experience of rapids all over the world. He gave us total confidence and it was through his brilliant guidance and instruction that I really began to enjoy myself. I was wet and freezing cold, but I will always see it as a marvellous life experience, which I will never forget.

When the rapids slowed down, we were able to notice the landscape. I saw people crossing the river in little cages high above us, travelling along pulley systems all the way to the other side. Wild monkeys and beautiful birds were cavorting in the trees above. A sumptuous lunch had been prepared for us on the riverbank, so welcomed, as we were tired, cold and wet. We just managed a hot cup of tea before the temperature dropped and the heavens opened. It was a terrible thunderstorm and we were told to get back in the canoes and carry on until the end – another 12kms! When we arrived we were greeted with dry towels, warm clothes and food. Exhausted, we climbed back into the Range Rover but I was so happy and thrilled that I had done it! I couldn’t wait to get back to Wildflower Hall where my therapist was waiting to give me a recuperating massage. It was a wonderful end to the day and I was so relaxed that I fell into a deep sleep, only awaking when the therapist sounded a gong!

I slept soundly that night, waking up energised and ready for the day. Breakfast – delicious delicacies from Northern India – was often served on the terrace where we were treated to a wonderful view of the mountains. We were told that a guide would take us on a scenic walk to the next village where we could do some shopping. My husband told me to meet him at 9.30am in reception where a chauffeur and the guide would take us on the daytrip. In the meantime I got ready for the shopping trip, dressing accordingly in my gold sandals. In reception I met the chauffeur who asked me to wait in the car until the others arrived. When they appeared we set off, travelling 20kms south of the hotel.

Our guide was the famous ecologist and botanist, Manoj Biswas, and he was so approachable and knowledgeable. He told us that he often advises the Government on many issues that arise around Shimla, the Himalyas and India. He was a great traveller – mountain climbing and trekking were his passions – and he often trekked to Tibet. Although only in his thirties, he spoke elegantly and never stopped to amaze us with his stories and knowledge.

The car stopped at the top of a hill and we got out and walked to a clearing down below. Manoj looked at my gold sandals and asked if I’d bought any walking shoes. In despair I said no and my husband laughed in disbelief. I was very embarrassed but Manoj smiled and said it would be no trouble for the chauffeur to return to the hotel and collect a pair of my shoes and some warm clothes. It had taken us over an hour to get here and I felt mortified, but Manoj reassured me that it wasn’t a problem. (To this day, though, it remains a family joke!) He had such a great attitude and I felt such a bond with him.

We were standing in a clearing surrounded by cedars and pine trees. The floor was carpeted with a thick layer of grass, wildflowers and pinecones exuding their wonderful fragrance. Whilst waiting for the chauffeur to return, Manoj told us many stories. During the time of the Raj, Shimla was the second capital after Delhi. To escape the heat of the summer months, the British would come to the mountains in their droves to cool down. We stood in the middle of the clearing admiring the dark blue sky and Manoj told us about Lady Curzon and other aristocratic British ladies who would hold parties here. Hundreds and hundreds of porters were required to bring down all their necessities – food, blankets, utensils, carpets, torches etc – all the things needed to comfort the privileged. Dancers, singers and musicians would make their way down to the clearing in order to entertain the crowd. He was such a good storyteller that it was easy to imagine the splendour and fun of days gone by.

Manoj told us how, aged only 7, he first met the Dalai Lama. The little Manoj even chatted to him! He met him again when he was much older and trekking in the mountains not far from Dharmasala, where the Dalai Lama resides. Apparently he remembered Manoj from all those years before and even remembered his name! Nowadays, Manoj frequently returns to Dharmasala and stays with the monks for long periods of time. They discuss ecological and religious issues together, their main concern being a glacier near Shimla that is melting fast. The water from the glacier is the main source of drinking water for the nearby villages and is essential for the agriculture. In years to come, both food and water will be scarce. Even the Himalayas themselves are affected – they are growing a couple of centimetres each year. The outer layers of lime make it difficult to construct buildings on their slopes, geologists are frequently warning people not to build there but their warnings go unheeded. Houses are often erected on the sides of the mountains, they have wonderful views but catastrophes are envisaged. During the monsoon torrents of water cascade down the mountains taking everything in their path. Whole villages suddenly disappear but the builders still don’t listen. Unfortunately, all the bureaucracy means prevention often comes too late.

When my walking shoes and warm clothes arrived (delivered beautifully wrapped in tissue paper) we started off on our scenic walk. The first thing we came across was a small wooden temple, its façade stunningly decorated with carvings. Manoj told us that it was built over 250 years ago by the villagers, with a sculpture of Lord Ganesh at the entrance to welcome visitors. The carvings depicted men hunting, animals, domestic happenings and dances. There were also some interesting ones of Western soldiers, unusual carvings that had never been seen anywhere else before. Apparently the villagers rarely used the temple, only at festivals.

We passed a small school and could hear the children singing in their lessons, their little faces smiled at us as we went by. In another village, the happy children walked with us for part of the way. We stopped at a small farm to see the farmer’s wife bringing the cattle back from the meadow. The cows were taken to the stable that was situated under the house, the warmth of the animals serves as central heating during the winter months for the occupants of the house above. (From September to April, most of the villages around Shimla are under snow.) The farmer’s wife and daughter had very European-like features and although they worked hard carrying heavy loads, they wore wonderful clothes of bright orange. Their necks were adorned with handmade silver jewellery and they wore fine veils of glitter in their hair. Despite their hard work, they had such happy faces and were so hospitable.

The farmer’s wife sat on the gravel and told Manoj that one of their favourite dogs had disappeared that morning, no doubt eaten by a snow leopard. She warned us to be careful on our walk. One of the main preoccupations of the villagers is to make sure that their animals don’t become the victims of the big cats. Both the young and old must take precautions when walking by themselves. It really made me realise that I lead such a sheltered life in England; all our little concerns are laughable compared with theirs.

Here the locals cultivate maize, wheat and all sorts of root vegetables. Magnificent fruit trees surrounded the farm and she told us with a smile that she had just started planting cauliflowers for the first time – she was so excited to be able to cook them for the family.

We left the farm and took another direction. The small path got more and more narrow before suddenly disappearing altogether. Someone shouted to us from above, apparently the path had disappeared due to erosion but another could be found if we could climb up a little. This was not easy as the earth and gravel were so fragile but the man above told me not to worry. He had a spade and began to cut into the earth, making some steps for me! This went on for a good 20 minutes and I was amazed and bewildered! When he’d finished, he came down to give me a hand, a big happy smile on his toothless face. I was really touched and gave him a big smile in return.

The Visiting Monkey

There are many monkeys around the hotel and some take great liberties. One day, a large monkey the size of an Alsatian dog came up to our bedroom window (luckily it was closed) to try and get at the bowl of mangoes put out for the guests. He had been attracted by strong smell of the fruit and looked quite angry when he realised that he couldn’t get at them. He hissed at us and made gestures shaking and jumping at the window-panes in an effort to get in. Apparently this particular monkey had been around the hotel for the last 10 days and had climbed the fire escape in order to take refuge on the roof where the staff couldn’t easily get to him.

One evening soon after, David, the general manager, asked us if we would meet with Vikram Oberoi, of the Oberoi Hotels group, for a drink in the library, a beautiful room overlooking the garden. He welcomed us with a huge smile and couldn’t have been nicer. David seemed extremely happy and at ease in his presence and we were later told that Vikram inspired a great respect in the hotel’s staff.)

Vikram went on to tell us his monkey story of the day. It seemed that he had had a similar experience to us. Apparently that afternoon, the same Macak monkey had been very bold and entered his suite through an open window. Vikram was in the bathroom at the time and unaware of the intruder. When he returned to his bedroom to get dressed he found a bad-tempered monkey eating mangoes on his bed! Surveying the scene, he noticed that the monkey was also eating the remains of his breakfast, scattering the unwanted items around the bedroom and making a terrible mess.

Despite the chaos, Vikram managed to telephone David from the safety of the bathroom and with great patience, the hotel staff managed to get the angry monkey to leave. They dealt with the situation in a gentle manner and with good humour and in the end; everyone breathed a collective sigh of relief! (According to David, Vikram’s monkey story was top of the agenda at next morning’s meeting!)